The Ecolabel Fable

“‘Are these all Ocean Wise?’ I ask our server, pointing to the 11 nigiri items with the stamp next to them. She assures me they are, and I ask for more time to peruse the menu. When she turns away, I pull out my phone and select the Ocean Wise app, which allows users to find restaurants across Canada that are part of the program and check on the sustainability status of seafood. I search the partner directory for the Next Modern Japanese Cuisine in Victoria, British Columbia, but it doesn’t appear, suggesting the restaurant is not an Ocean Wise member. Before I have a chance to check some of the seafood, the server returns. What was supposed to be a stress-free lunch becomes an interrogation.”

Raina Delisle – Hakai Magazine – November 2017


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